A slightly bent threaded bar can be knocked up behind deep coving and not damage it.Ĭables are also often taken under suspended floors or even sometimes placed into chases cut into concrete ones. A long SDS bit may still damage very deep coving as it is not always possible to get the drill into a vertical position. A long threaded bar and a lump hammer.Note: one will need to take care that cable routes are within the prescribed zones expected - even if this means installing an extra accessory to mark the position. It can also often save time where adjacent rooms have light switches "back to back" on the dividing wall - only one chase is required for the pair. This can be ideal for a cable chase on a tiled wall in a bathroom. Using the other side of the wall: As simple as it sounds, in some cases the solution to avoiding difficult chases, might be to simply use the other side of the wall.Cranked gouging chisel: specially made SDS gouges can also work well for getting behind smaller items.Its worth putting your foot against the skirting to support it, just to make sure it does not get pulled away from the wall (where the drilling dust could fall behind it, and keep it bulged out when you are finished if you are unlucky). It should be possible to bend the drill such that its tip is parallel to the wall, while keeping the drill body and your hands at the slight angle required due to the obstruction of the wall. The trick here is to apply some sideways force to the bit as you drill. For a longer vertical chase, the longer bit will be required. With small obstructions (dado etc) this may not matter, drilling down behind it at a slight angle will still be ok. This is usually impossible since you can't get the drill in the right place, or at the right angle since the wall is in the way. Ideally one would need to drill straight up or down through the plaster to achieve this. Long drill bit: A very long drill bit (we are talking a minimum of 400mm here to get behind small items like picture or dado rails, or more realistically a stonking great 1m long bit for skirtings and coving!) can be a handy way to continue a chase behind the feature you are trying to avoid.It is all well and good chasing a wall with your trusty SDS drill or wall chaser, but what happens when you reach some architectural feature that you don't want to go hacking through, like a deep skirting board or ornate plaster cornice or moulding? See the wall chaser article for more detail on the options for cutting cable chases in plaster and masonry.Īlso don't forget the lazy option of using a pull switch rather than a wall mounted one, or a wireless room thermostat/door bell/network connection/etc in place of a wired one. Before a cable can be buried however, a chase needs to be cut! Modern cables can be buried directly in plaster, or protected with capping before plastering. directly in line with visible accessories - horizontally or vertically, plus in a 150mm band in room corners or at wall to ceiling junctions.īurying a cable in a wall is a traditional way to hide and protect the cable. Follow the wiring regs expected zones for cables - i.e. If you need to route mains and other cables in trunking then use segregated trunking designed for the purpose. Crossing a wire at a right angle will result in less potential for interference that running adjacent to it. Keep mains wires a minimum of 50mm away from data, telecomms, and AV wiring wherever possible.Avoid hot areas around heating appliances etc.
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